INTVW: Stylist - Newheart Ohanian
INTVW: Stylist - Newheart Ohanian
A graduate of the prestigious Fashion Institute of Technology, NYC. Newheart Ohanian began her fashion career as a designer and after several years of working in the industry, decided to shift her focus and embark on a career as a freelance fashion stylist. Having spent time in Florence and Milan studying apparel and textile design, she draws upon her knowledge and experiences while bringing a unique edge to the fashion industry.
Newheart's flair for fashion and her love of storytelling through visual imagery is what makes her invaluable to all of her clients. Her innate talent accompanied by her professionalism, has lead her work to be featured in numerous international fashion magazines. Newheart is as creative and artistic as she is motivated. She possesses a flawless sense for what is contemporary and timeless.
Newheart is a native New Yorker and currently is based in New York City.
How did you go about securing your first work contacts?
I started in the business as a designer, but found styling to be my true passion. I worked relentlessly and often for no pay as an assistant, and tested with creative teams on a weekly basis to build my book and my experience. The stylists I assisted recognized that I had an eye for clothing and a skill to be able to interpret a concept or direction and pull clothing based on that. On one project, a photographer admired the work I had done as part of another stylist’s team and called me the next day to see my book – the rest is history.
How did you initially go about sourcing clothes for test shoots?
When I first started styling, I borrowed my mother’s clothes (furs, dresses) and jewels and bought other items from stores. Over the years, I built good relationships with showrooms and designers. When I would do small magazine shoots, I would arrange to hold on to the clothes for an extra day or over the weekend and set up test shoots. I always took excellent care of the samples and produced strong images, which made people more willing to lend again.
How do you go about putting a look together?
In the early years I would never commit to a creative concept until I had finished pulling, because I wouldn’t always get the items I wanted and would be forced to put together a direction based on what I was given. Sometimes it’s a matter of mathematics. How many dresses do you have? How many pants looks do you have? How many pieces are being used from one designer? I’m lucky that now the samples I request are usually confirmed, which makes my job a lot easier and has cut prep time in half.
What is the creative process when working with a director/photographer on a fashion video shoot?
First read the treatment and go over the direction – have a dialogue with the art director on what they would like, exchange ideas and so on. The next step is to prep the clothes and take pictures, then select images collaboratively. Film is very different from still photography – you can’t use clamps or other ‘quick fixes’, so clothes have to be fitted properly and alterations are the next step.
What are the most useful items in your kit? Do you have any quick-fix tips?
Double-stick tape, safety pins and clamps. My fashion design background often comes in handy – I can hem a pair of pants in minutes, and my training as a draper allows me to understand how a garment should fall and where I can take in seam allowance without completely altering the design of the garment.
Do you have an assistant? If so, what do you expect from them?
I have several assistants. They are responsible for picking up the clothing and accessories from the showrooms, and properly returning them after the shoot. While on set assistants help organize the wardrobe area, keep an eye on all the merchandise, track the credits for the wardrobe pieces that are being shot and dress the models. A good assistant will take initiative on set and anticipate my needs, which means they need to always pay attention. Punctuality is also very important to me.
Do you have an agent? If so, how does this benefit you?
I’m in the process of finding a New York agent. I had a Los Angeles agent for some time. You have to find an agency that cares about you and your career for it to be a harmonious and lucrative marriage for both parties. It’s amazing if it’s the right fit!
Who or what in your field has influenced you?
I absolutely love Grace Coddington for her beautiful conceptual editorial spreads. I admire Carine Roitfeld’s edgy spreads for always pushing the envelope. The photographers that have influenced me most are Guy Bourdin and Helmut Newton.
What advice would you give to an aspiring fashion stylist?
Be tenacious and be driven. This job is not always glamorous, far from it – it is a lot of manual labour in addition to the creative aspect. It is important to keep an eye on the commercial sector, the markets and who is buying the clothes, which brands or advertisers need to be featured. Know your photographers and editors, always stay on top of blogs and fashion websites – do your homework!
(Interview originally published Aug 2016)